Holi, the festival of colors, is celebrated across India with joy and enthusiasm. However, in Varanasi, the ancient city known for its spiritual and mystical traditions, Holi is played in a rather unusual and eerie way at the famous Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats. This unique celebration is called ‘Masan Holi’, a festival that embraces death as a part of life.
Unlike the usual Holi celebrations that involve splashes of bright colors and water, Masan Holi is played with ashes from funeral pyres. The festival takes place at cremation ghats, where people smear themselves with ash instead of colors. This tradition is deeply connected to Lord Shiva, who is believed to reside in Varanasi and is often associated with cremation grounds.
The mythological connection
Masan Holi is linked to Lord Shiva’s deep devotion to ghosts, spirits, and aghoris (ascetics who renounce worldly pleasures). According to legends, Shiva’s devotees believe that playing Holi at the cremation ground pleases him. It is said that even the spirits and ancestors join the celebrations, symbolising the unity of life and death.
A celebration beyond fear
For many, death is feared, but in Varanasi, it is considered a gateway to liberation (moksha). By celebrating Holi with ashes, devotees attempt to overcome the fear of death and accept it as an inevitable part of existence. This festival also highlights the belief that death is not the end but a transition to another life.
When & how is it celebrated?
Masan Holi is observed a few days before the main Holi festival, especially in and around the Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats. Devotees, sadhus, and locals gather to chant Shiva’s name, dance, and apply ashes from funeral pyres on each other, embracing a tradition that is as thought-provoking as it is mystical.
This extraordinary festival is a reminder of Varanasi’s profound spiritual depth and its age-old traditions that challenge conventional perceptions of life and death.
