The concept of mool: kitchen & bar is clear in the name — getting to the source/root of everything. The restaurant has recipes borrowed from varied home chefs and made from the original ingredients that those chefs used. Sarvesh, the consultant for mool:bar and kitchen, explains the concept passionately, “We explored lengths and breadths of the country and zeroed down a few states.” The best part is that a percentage of the profit made from the recipes by these home chefs goes back to them as royalty. “It is us giving back to the source; source of our happiness.
sarso ka saag |
You are welcomed with some ragi straws served with a tangy, tasty beetroot sauce. The extensive region-wise menu can be overwhelming. It is a good idea to refer to the ala carte menu to order.
Signature cocktails are named after regions in India. “We have used ingredients from those regions,” informs bar manager Pooja. She recommends Pauri from Uttarakhand. Gin infused with rhododendron from Uttarakhand and finished with local lime and lychee liqueur. Half of the glass exterior is covered with hemp seed powder, again from Uttarakhand, to give it textural finish. The powder also adds umami to the drink that is refreshing.
Kale Chane Ka Shorba |
Tender Coconut Chilly Fry, Dohre Kabab are the accompanying starters. Slivers of tender coconut tossed with coloured peppers and chillies — coconut blandness is nicely spiced up making it a good company for Pauri. Dohre Kabab, as the name suggests, is made of two meats — chicken and mutton. Doesn’t do much for my palate, however. Next on the list is Anjal Masala. Fresh king fish steak marinated in housemade, tasty, Manglorean masala and slow fried. It’s a must try.
Bateir Rassa |
It was time for a little break from the drink ‘n’ starters. Kale Chane Ka Shorba was a perfect break. Slightly pepper forward blend of black chana, ginger, finished in ghee dressed with fresh coriander. Great for the winter season and a must for vegetarians. They also have a winter menu currently available for next two months. Do try the Sarson Ka Saag and Makai Ki Roti from that menu. Non-veg eaters please don’t miss the Bateir Rassa and Bhang Kukkad from the winter menu. Another soup from regular menu that one should try is Paya Shorba — lamb trotters slow cooked whole night with subtle spices.
Bicchoo Booti Ka Saag |
Must try from the mains of the regular menu is Gehat Ki Dal. Gehat Dal is traditionally from Uttarakhand and mool, probably the only restaurant in Mumbai to serve it. The dal, like all other ingredients, is sourced directly from the farms in Uttarakhand. Subtly spiced to retain the original taste of dal, the dal is delicious with ragi roti. Have some Rajasthani Ker Sangri or Bichchoo Boti Ka Saag with it and Hemp Seed Chutney with ghee to complete the meal. The saag again is a Uttarakhand speciality. Could be because the head chef, Bharat, is from Uttarakhand, but the restaurant does have more Uttarakhand dishes. “Not just Uttarakhand, even other states are well represented and we source ingredients from each state directly from their farms and markets,” Bharat informs.
Tangera, the cocktail based on the region from Bengal is a pre-batched drink served as I wait for the next main course. Bird-eye chilli from the area is muddled with charred yellow pepper, jalapeno, and honey. Tequila is added to the muddle and shaken to create a elegant, slightly spicy cocktail with smoky aroma. Have Ker Sangri with it as snack.
Ahuna Mutton |
Bihar is the next state we explore. Ahuna Mutton is a delectable dish from that non-vegetarians should try. Mutton is cooked with all full spices and garlic on slow fire. The slow cooked mutton absorbs the spice flavour well. Best eaten with phulka or chur chur naan. Litti Chokha is best eaten steaming hot.
Dohre Kabab |
mool: kitchen & bar has more to offer from other states like Assam, Goa, and Rajasthan as well. And, of course, the morels from Kashmir.
Black Forest Cake |
Desserts come from the café upstairs. Kaapi Misu is their take on Tiramisu where they use filter coffee from Chikmangloor. But the winner is Black Forest Cake which is made from dark chocolate and is textures galore.
Average cost: ` 3000 (with alcohol)
